Growing up in Philly I never really saw any proper surfers. Certainly you can't surf on the Delaware River. I would go to the Jersey shore for a week during some summers. I loved going to the surf shop to buy my poseur surfer gear. Maybe an Ocean Pacific long sleeve t-shirt and a Ron Jon Surf Shop sticker for my marble notebook. You know, so I could rep surfing, while taking notes in Bio AP.
I used to see people with surf boards at the Jersey shore. I guess they were surfers, but it didn't really seem like there were ever any waves to surf. I lived in Southern California for 6 months a while back. I saw some real surfers there. Now I live in South Florida, and well there are some real surfers in Martin County where I go to the beach. And I watch them surf when the waves are up. It looks so easy. I want to do it.
I am a big believer that anyone can do anything with enough time and practice. I know I can learn to surf. But I lack so many of the requisite skills to even get started.
I am a terrible swimmer. I have terrible balance. No upper body strength. I have zero experience with board sports. Never skateboarded, snowboarded, wakeboarded, nothing. I have rollerbladed.
So that might explain why I am so jealous of surfers. What they do, seems almost impossible to me. But it looks so easy.
